Friday, August 5, 2016

Finish Cinque Terre, La Spezia and Salsomaggiore

Monday morning and quick pack for the short hop to La Spezia and hit the road after my last breakfast at this lovely property. Bye bye Cinque Terra. I really enjoyed my relax here and the lack of feeling guilty that I got not overloading with tourist activities. Each of the towns had its own charm but Monterosso and Manarola were probably my favourite places.  I'd rate this as a good pick for a holiday and four full days was probably enough for a relaxing time but realistically without hiking, two days was possible.

Ninety kilometer hop to La Spezia which I was told was nothing special but in fact, although being a port city, was very attractive indeed. Old town with shops and cafes and a certain type of Italian charm. What wasn't charming however was the road closures, inaccurate GPS information trying to turn me up one way streets the wrong way and other such antics.

Anyway I FINALLY found my accommodation and learned a lovely new Italian word - Affiticamere! This is a B&B room of any type or style which in this case was an ensuite bedroom within somebody's apartment. I was seriously upset to the point that the owner wrote me an email complaining of my behavior, right in some sense but not in others, he asked why I didn't put the word into Google translate and I would have known and then told me he had told bookings.com more than a hundred times to do something about it and they hadn't. Given that he wrote the description of the property he certainly could have made it clearer. Anyway why would I put a US website into Google translate, I simply thought it was part of the name – DUH! Anyway was able to cancel without cost and rent a four star shoebox sorry hotel room for the two night stay.

More GPS battles but I eventually find it and go for a walk around town and buy what I thought was a takeaway lasagne which turned out to be a pommodoro lasagne with tomato and no meat but tasty all the same. Michael and Vivien (bro and sis-in-law) come to the hotel and we go for a walk around town. Deciding to have a drink before dinner we stop at a street wine bar and order three soft drinks and a glass of wine. They proceed to bring some olives, sweet roasted onions, sun-dried tomatoes, bruschetta pesto and we are thinking we were about to be poorer tourists - nope very reasonable $A20 best value this trip so far. Walk to the restaurant originally opting for an outside table but realising how hot it was head inside.  Not in any way expensively fitted out the ambience was amazing with my view possibly aided by their playing Ray Charles in the background, one wall was worthy of note - an amazing 2 x 2 metre canvas with four photos of the owners two kids and something like our best dish so in Italian. The Neal was excellent - a mushroom truffle gnocchi and an amazing foie gras with fresh sour cherries and a glass of dessert wine, which despite having may fair share of foie gras and never having received a dessert wine – apparently quite normal. Who would be thought that heaven resides in Italy. We were all amazed when the bill for three entrees, three main and three desserts with one glass of wine and mineral water came to $A60 a head.

Off to bed rather lateish but the arrangement is that I will pick up Michael and Vivien at 10:00 the next morning. Breakfast was a good example of an Italian breakfast and I arrive in time as we head off to Lucca, a town an hour away from La Spezia that my Italian bridge friends have told me is quite beautiful. They weren't wrong, a lovely town verging on village with a great old part of town filled with interesting shops, cafes, offer shops and many other traders. We spend about two hours total, walking around and settle for a cafe style lunch, you know the type salad, lasagne and rock melon with Parma (of course) ham.

Some more walking around before heading back to La Spezia around 16:00. I drop M&V at their hotel and go to a large shipping mall and supermarket to get a few things. I picked up M&V at 19:30 and we are for Porto Venere which was on their hit list. Only 17km away it took some time to get there along the windy coastal road. After doing two laps of the road down the hill towards and up the hill out of the seaside marina town we finally snag a car space - even the carpark was full. We spent some time inspecting restaurants, their menus and ratings etc., before deciding on the hotel restaurant in the Grand Hotel. Now you need to know that hotel restaurants are normally off limits but the beautiful terrace setting overlooking the town forced us to make an exception and what a good call that was. The food, the service, the ambience and everything was just so right. 

Let me digress for a moment. One thing I do when I travel is catch up with podcasts. During the drive from Lucca I listen to Alex Baldwin and Here's the Thing and an interview with a doctor Lustig. The theme was how much bad food we out into our bodies especially sugar. Anyway I was so profoundly moved by this I then and there went on a sugar detox which is going ok after 30 hours. I'll pepper the blog with my progress on this one. So finishing up the meal of mussels (best ones EVER and a rather unusual combination but incredibly tasty a seafood and fennel gnocchi, and of course no dessert.

I don't get back to the hotel and bed before 00:30  with all of the traffic, parking and other trevails.

Next morning I have a "work" conference call finally hitting the road at 10:00 heading to Salsomaggiore where the bridge tournament is being held. I must say I was extremely impressed with the beautiful town. In its day it was a spa town and as such the buildings and architecture is beautiful but the green fields and farmlands driving in were amazingly beautiful. Anyway at this early stage I feel quite happy to be spending the next 11 days here. 

I arrive at the hotel which is shoebox rooms but say size 14 as there is at least a king size bed in the room rather than the king single in my last one, but I am being a little unfair it is a nice room and well appointed. With youth bridge all the meals are included. Let me digress again - a few years ago in China we were served KFC for 10 days straight and to make it infinitely worse that's what I decided to eat on the first day I arrived as I hadn't had it for some years before. Anyway the lunch was an amazing buffet of salads, antipasta, lasagne and heaps of other food delights. Now that the food situation matches the city situation I am REALLY HAPPY  TO BE HERE. Youth tournaments are always a bit of crap shoot and it is with some intrepidation that one arrives at them.

I walk up the playing area in the Congress Hall which is a slightly outdated by nonetheless a beautiful old building about 300 metres from the hotel. Some areas are not air conditioned but overall the players and officials will be quite happy with this venue.

I nurse a cappuccino while catching up on my blog and at 19:00 attend the opening ceremony. An excellent one if judged by the short and concise speeches. There are 800 participants here in four divisions Under 25 (22 ) Under 20 (18 ) Kids Under 15 (14 ) and girls Under 25 (14). I notice a LOT of well-armed police presence which seemed unusual until it twigged that there were two Israeli teams and it was especially in place for them.

Back to the hotel for a great meal and an early night – no dessert and no sugar.

So Thursday and the tournament begins. I breakfast and arrive at the venue very early for the 10:00 start. The VuGraph theatre is great, the theatre where the opening ceremony was held. Although seating large numbers it looked quite well populated with around 150 viewers, which is much better than commentating for a handful of less than interested souls – which has happened in the past. The reason for so many is that there are 68 teams mostly comprising 6 people with only four playing at once. So those 136 not playing plus 68 captains and officials make up the bulk of the audience.

Australia is represented by an U25 team and a girls team. At the end of day one the Juniors are running 13th after some tough opponents while the girls are running 7th after just 2 matches. A mediocre but acceptable start.

Nothing else to report for now
Hope all are well
XD

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